Manchester’s restaurants have been in the news quite a lot of late. The big stories of the last couple of weeks are: ‘Manchester loses Michelin star’ and ‘Swanky restaurants close’.
The news that Altrincham’s Juniper, carrier of the city's solitary star from culinary scrutinisers Michelin, has now lost its highly sought after award caused much scratching of heads and expressions of bewilderment from the city’s foodies. It was the only shining beacon of hope in an otherwise star-less city; somewhere we could look to in moments of culinary frustration, and now it’s gone. The fact that Birmingham now has three Michelin-approved establishments only caused further dismay and many are asking the question, why doesn’t Manchester have any top class restaurants?
The answer, according to chef, restauranter, and ex-owner of the now defunct Brasserie Blanc, Raymond Blanc, is due to high rents. And the choosing of crap locations. "It is my fault that we chose the wrong location in the city,” he said, “but the council in Manchester really needs to look at the level of the rents that are being charged in the city centre and do something about it.” Here’s a little picture of Raymond for you:
Now, this wouldn’t be a news story if we didn’t mention ‘The Credit Crunch’, now formally known as ‘The Recession’, which does, of course, also have something to do with this. It has apparently claimed another scalp in the shape of the aforementioned Juniper which, whilst still reeling from the loss of its Michelin star, has also now apparently closed down.
Another blow to the higher end eating options in and around Manchester, which brings us back to the point, so eloquently put by Monsieur Blanc himself thus: “I cannot believe that Manchester, the second biggest city in England, can't sustain a quality restaurant. All the great European cities are judged on their cuisine and restaurants as much as any other part of their culture and if you look at Manchester's record of culinary achievements, it is appalling.”
Well, when you’re having a moan why not really go for it, right? This little outburst unsurprisingly caused some ripples in the gastronomic pool of the city. Marcello Di Stefano, owner of local Italian restaurant San Carlo, was one of the first to step up. “It’s a load of rubbish,” he said. “People seem to have this silly idea that getting something like a Michelin star rating is the be all and end all. The real food that people want is simple good cooking, but that will never get the Michelin star. And the people who have tried that level of fine dining in Manchester have never been good enough.”
Perhaps the question we should be asking is not whether Manchester will ever have a Michelin-starred restaurant again but whether we actually want, or indeed need, one.